Toronto – (Actual transcript from our guest writer Pierre educating Gary about focusing on task…)
With many opting to become amateur photographers with the advent of the Digital Format SLR and others continuing the hobby on from the days of 35mm film cameras, it was inevitable that aftermarket camera part manufacturers would think to offer replacement focusing screens for some of the most popular SLRs out there today. One such manufacturer is Katz Eye Optics. Based out of Adams, Massachusetts they offer a comprehensive line of replacement focusing screens for a wide selection of D-SLRs. Their split prism focusing screens offer a refreshing alternative to the standard offerings of the major camera producers of today.
Many of us who began photography early on will remember the split prism focusing screen which was so prolific in the days of 35mm film SLRs. These focusing screens have become increasingly rare, being replaced with matte types, perhaps due to improvements in auto-focus technology, although the matter has not been widely addressed. Unfortunately many camera companies simply do not offer alternatives. In any case, many people find these split-prism types more effective in composing certain shots and a common lament, especially of the older generation, is the lack of these focusing screens in newer SLR models.
After hearing several positive reviews I recently decided to purchase the Katz Eye focusing screen for my Nikon D200, to use with my Nikkor 50mm f1.2 AI-s lens. This lens had been giving me trouble for some time, first off being a manual focusing lens and adding to that, its very shallow depth of field. Often a very slight shift of the focusing ring would ruin a photograph as the subtle shift of focus was not always apparent through the viewfinder.
Finding the frustration of not using this wonderful lens to its full potential too much, I ordered the basic split-prism screen for the D-200. Interestingly Katz Eye also offers an enhanced version with what they call their “OptiBrite” treatment. This treatment claims to improve viewfinder brightness at higher f stops, and is generally recommended when using slower lenses. However, since I didn’t opt for that treatment that’s all I’ll say on the matter. But getting down to the gritty details I purchased my focusing screen for about $125 USD end price. Expect to pay another $55 USD if you decide to go with the OptiBrite treatment. As well, grid lines may be added for an additional $45 USD, but considering most Nikon D-SLRs allow you to do this through the menu it seems unnecessary unless you do a large amount of architectural photography.
The Katz Eye installation tool
So approximately 3 days later my Katz Eye focusing screen arrived in the mail… as did the customs bill which added another $10 or $20 to the total bill. The excitement was palpable but I was still at work and had to wait. When evening finally came, I headed home, with a growing sense of dread that I would have to start messing around with the insides of a camera that cost me $700. A short time later I had gathered the tools dictated in the instructions and taken a shot of whisky to steady my hand.
Even after reading the instructions, doubt lingered in my mind. But as it often is, action is the best teacher. I probably spent a good 30-45 minutes the first time I changed the focusing screens. The job does require caution and precise adherence to the guidelines. Using the installation tool provided you lift a retaining wire which holds the focusing screen in place, which then will fall back just in front of the mirror. From that point the focusing screen will often simply fall back onto the wire and can be lifted out with a pair of tweezers by a small tab on the top. Sometimes though, it may require a bit more coaxing and at other times a thin metallic framing shim may also come out. This shim can easily be placed back into position with a little care.
Releasing the retaining wire that holds the focusing screen in place
Once the old focusing screen is out, it’s simply a matter of placing the Katz Eye focusing screen in the position the original used to occupy. It’s really just that simple. After that, one only needs to do the same operations in reverse; that is to place the new focusing screen on the retaining wire and then gently and slowly using the installation tool, raise the retaining wire to its initial position and press it forward until it clicks back into place (a very subtle click I may add). And that’s it, you’re done!
The Katz Eye focusing screen in place just before resetting the retaining wire
So the obvious next step was to mount my troubled lens and take it for a test drive. Did the Katz Eye focusing screen deliver? Well yes and no, but mostly yes. It certainly did solve many of the issues I was having with manual focusing. This was most apparent at close distances where the depth of field was shallowest. However, next throwing on my telephoto lens I was a little disappointed at the results with that lens at maximum zoom.
The problem is that the area in the split prism appears heavily diffused until just before coming into focus, providing minimal warning that you are nearing proper focus. Since I really only used 50mm lenses in my younger days I cannot say if this issue was present in the old 35mm SLRs, but in any case this was a sour point for me. In addition to that an old friend came back to haunt me. Split-Prism blackout occurs when the aperture drops below the design limit of the screen (usually f5.6 or f8), and is recognized by half of the split prism darkening substantially. Although an eventuality with this type of screen, you should be aware of it if using lenses at higher f stops.
Another question many people would like to ask is ‘what effect does this screen have on auto-focus and metering?’ My answer is essentially ‘none’. Although I’m probably not as picky as most, I couldn’t discern a change in metering or auto-focus, post-installation. Katz Eye themselves address the issue quite competently, citing that when using lenses slower than f3.5 in spot metering mode problems are likely to occur. Luckily using center weighted average or matrix metering will correct this problem. Be aware, however, that this might be different for other camera models and should be researched on their website.
The Katz Eye “Plus” Split Prism w/Microprism Collar (top) and
Nikon B-type BrightView Clear Matte Screen II (bottom)
To conclude, the Katz Eye split prism focusing screen offers a very viable alternative to the standard-issue focusing screens provided in many Digital SLRs today. Despite some minor issues, some of which carry over from the 35mm era, the Katz Eye is still a well made, easy to install, and affordable option for those seeking to focus manually again or for the first time.
